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Varkala India This article

I spent 8 days in total in Varkala and enjoyed it almost every second.

I love the beach! And compared to Kovalam, Varkala is more laid-back and soothing. Just imagine a cliff surrounding a beach with luscious palm trees in the background. The sound of the ocean makes your thoughts flow away. Fruit sellers are yelling "Pineapple, pineapple madam", "Coconut, coconut" and at the same time crows are making awful noise.

The beach at North Cliff is in fact very nice if you look beneath it, but I'm sorry to say that it's buried in plastic, cans and bottles hanging from the cliff. It's very sad that the local government/population isn't doing anything. It's just laying there, like it was the most natural thing in the world.

For some years backpackers have preferred Varkala over Kovalam when they visited Kerala, because it's supposed to be less touristy.

I will tell you right away: Varkala has become touristy.

Varkala India: A LONG stairway
Don't get me wrong, Varkala was stunning and it was easy to get around. It was perfect for solo travelers like me. But it's overrated as a backpacker's destination. When I stayed at Shiva Garden I talked to travelers who have been to Varkala for the last decade.

I asked them: "So you have been here several times, you must love Varkala?"

Their answer was: "No, I love Shiva Garden, not Varkala anymore."

It's inevitable. Ever since the local government launched Kerala as 'God's Own Country' in 2000, the tourist arrivals have boomed in the state and especially along the coast.

Naturally, places like Varkala becomes touristy. On the bright side, even it was touristy I didn't feel it was overcrowded.

Backpackers, tourists, families, retirees and the hippies -? you will find them there.

Even if Varkala is touristy there are still some cheap rooms and cheap food. I will tell you about my experiences from Varkala, whether it was the food, the shopping and the 'tea-pot-beer'-drinking.

:-)

By air: The nearest airport is near Trivandrum. At the airport you can arrange pre-paid taxis to Varkala. The taxi booth is right next to the arrival exit -? you can't miss it.

By train: Several trains to Varkala leave cities and towns like Trivandrum (30 min-1 hour), Kochi (3-4 hours), Alleppey (2-3 hours), Kozhikode (8-8,5 hours) and Kollam (30 minutes).

Note: Most of the trains are on-time, but be prepared for delays as well.

For more information on train travel in India, visit this page

To get the cheapest train ticket (at least it was the cheapest I got), buy a train ticket directly at the train station.

Ask for General Quota -? unreserved seats.

A trip from Trivandrum to Varkala on General Quota cost me Rs 21, while a ticket through Cleartrip would have cost me Rs 58. The differences are small, but it's at least a way for budget travelers to save money on train travel.

If you buy General Quota unreserved seats, the seats are located in the first and last coach of the train.

The disadvantage about this type of ticket is that you're not guaranteed a seat. But if you're just going to Varkala, you're looking at a 30-minutes to 1-hour journey. It's feasible at Rs 21.

When you get off the train, there are Rickshaws and taxis waiting to take you to Varkala beach. It takes approximately 5-10 minutes to get there. For Rickshaws expect to pay between Rs 50-80 depending on your bargaining skills.

By bus: The bus routes I know about start from Trivandrum (Thampanoor bus stand) and Kollam, but I'm sure that you can get a bus to Varkala from other places in Kerala. One of my class mates took a bus from Ambalapuzha (30 minutes south of Alleppey) to Varkala and that cost her Rs 60.

By taxi: You can also a taxi to Varkala but it's of course expensive. We took a taxi from Varkala to Alleppey (we were 5 girls), and it cost Rs 2700 (they had to arrange a bigger car). If we were maximum four people, it would have cost us Rs 2100 to Alleppey. The taxi will usually pick you up at the guesthouse/hotel.

I arranged the ride at a travel agency right next to Little Tibet. Otherwise there's a taxi stand at the far south of North Cliff.

Important places to know about Varkala India:
Pharmacies can be found along the stretch of North Cliff You can't find banks and ATMS at Varkala beach. You have to take a short rickshaw-ride to Varkala village (less than 5 minutes). When the Rickshaw drives downwards the main hill and towards the village, you'll see an ATM on the right side of the road. It's near the Temple Junction. Otherwise several travel agencies do cash withdrawals. There's a 3-4 % fee.There's no shortage of internet cafes in Varkala. They charge Rs 40 per hour, and the connection is slow.

 

Kochi India | Fort Kochi and Ernakulam in Kerala | Accommodation, restaurants, attractions and shops | India backpacker, travel to the India

Kochi India: the Chinese fishing nets in Fort Kochi

All information below is subject to change Kochi consists of Fort Kochi, Mattancherry, Willingdon island and Ernakulam and much more. In this article I will focus on Fort Kochi and Ernakulam.

Fort Kochi has been strongly influenced by European culture for centuries, and it is deeply reflected in its architecture, food and history.

If you compare Ernakulam and Fort Kochi, it can be hard to digest that these two belong to the same country. Fort Kochi is absolutely stunning with its great architecture, laid-back and charming cafes.

But if you expect and want a 'real' piece of India, Fort Kochi is not the place to go and visit. Not many things will remind you of India in Fort Kochi.

I stayed in Fort Kochi for 3 weeks because of my field work. So I got to know this place very well.

Kochi India: Santa Cruz Church What I do know is that if you want to escape from the hassle and noise, Fort Kochi is perfect. It was very quiet compared to several places in India and Kerala.

So a couple of days of voyage into Fort Kochi will do good for your mind and body.

Another thing about Fort Kochi (and Kerala) was its people. I got to know fantastic Keralites during my stay there, and I will never forget them.

In general, the South Indian culture differs from the North Indian. And I'm probably not the only one thinking that Kerala is much more calmer than the north.

In fact, the differences are quite noticeable. You will notice it you too. People in the south harass you a lot less than they do in the north.

By air: Domestic and international flights land at Kochi airport, located 1,5 hour from Ernakulam city center.

From the airport you can take taxis to Ernakulam city center or Fort Kochi. I took a taxi from Ernakulam to the airport, and it cost me Rs 600. The ride took one hour. From Fort Kochi, a taxi to the airport will cost around Rs 700-800.

Here's the KSRTC AC-bus time table to and from airport:

Time table is picked up from stayinkochi.com.

Boat to Fort Kochi By train: There are two railway stations in Kochi, Ernakulam Town (around 3 km north of city center) and Ernakulam Junction.

Ernakulam Junction (ERS) is the closest station to the ferries heading for Fort Kochi, Mattancherry and the other islands (Vypeen and Bolghatty).

When arriving at Ernakulam Junction, take a pre-paid Rickshaw. The booth is right outside the main entrance. It cost Rs 20 from the railway station to the main boat jetty, in addition to a service charge (Rs 1). The ride takes 10 minutes.

When arriving at the main boat jetty, there's a ticket booth on your left side. If there's a long queue, there's a separate lady queue to the right. The ticket cost only Rs 3, and the boat ride takes 20 minutes to Fort Kochi.

Time table: Ernakulam to Fort Kochi -- (picked up from stayinkochi.com)

Time table from Fort Kochi to Ernakulam/Willingdon island:

Kochi India

When arriving in Fort Kochi, you can either walk or take an auto rickshaw to the main tourist area, where most of the guesthouses, homestays and hotels are located in town.

Most of the accommodation facilities are heavily concentrated around Princess street, Bastian street, Burger street and Peter Celli street, while many hotels and resorts can be found on Tower Road and along the shores.

How to leave Kochi: the same way you got in. By rail Ernakulam Junction connects to most major towns and cities in Kerala. Trains to Trivandrum also leave Ernakulam Town.

Kochi India: Ticket booth at Fort Kochi jetty Most trains to Goa (Madgaon) leave Ernakulam Junction and take between 12-16 hours, depending on train route. If you're on your way to Wayanad, you can take the train from Ernakulam Junction/Town and get off at Kozhikode (Calicut). The train ride takes 4-5 hours, and another long bus or taxi ride from Calicut to Wayanad.

You should have at least one hour at your hands when arriving at the railway station. I will tell you about one incident.

I booked a seat on a train from Ernakulam Junction to Trivandrum. I arrived there 45 minutes before departure. Guess what they said?

"I'm sorry, but the train route to Trivandrum has been moved to Ernakulam Town. Only for today."

I grabbed my stuff, and ran to find an auto. The ride from Ernakulam Junction to Ernakulam Town took 15 minutes, and cost Rs 35. I was glad that I showed up early, that's for sure :-)

Important information for Kochi:
Police: Office at Ernakulam Junction Railway station. Tourist police tel: 0484-2224067Hospital: Try Medical Trust Hospital, a private hospital and has a 24 hour ambulance service. Tel: +91 484 2358001. Website: Medical Trust HospitalKSRTC bus station: General inquiry tel: + 91 484 2372033Internet: Rs 40 per hour, international calls: from Rs 15 per minute

Railway travel India | How to choose the rights seats and berths | Tips on travel by train in the India

Millions of Indians take the train every day. India has enormous train stations, 'endless' platforms and there is some panic involved in finding the right train, and the right coach.

I personally couldn't relax before I knew I was on the right track.

This article is aimed at helping newbies finding their way on Indian railway stations. I will focus on sleeper class (SL) and second sitting (2S).

What are the differences between these two? How do they look like?

Which berth should I choose?

All of these questions will be answered here in this article.

On short distances you can choose second sitting (2S). It's usually the cheapest option. I chose the 2S quite often. There was no air-con, only fan. The luggage can be stowed away in the upper shelf right above your head.

On short and longer distances you can choose sleeper class. You have 'beds' where you can sleep and relax. There are no pillows and quilts in sleeper class, so feel free to bring your own.

There are 5 types of berths you can choose from in sleeper class: lower, middle, upper, side upper and side lower.

Rail travel India: The different berths in sleeper class The lower, middle and upper are faced horizontally in the train, while the side upper and side lower are faced vertically (along the windows).

Which one should you choose?

If you're scared of heights, lower berths would be the best option. Here you also get to sit next to the window. During daytime though you have to expect that strangers will come and sit on your berth. If you want to take a nap, it's not always possible.

If you choose the upper berths (upper and side upper), you can go to bed whenever you want. There's a short stepladder from lower berth to upper berth. If you know that you're a heavy sleeper and sleep in one position the whole time, upper berth can be nice.

I tried an upper berth once, but it was creepy to fall asleep because the train was driving fast and I was afraid to fall out of bed.

The middle berth can be a solution for travelers who are afraid of heights, but middle berth is seldom folded out during daytime because people want to sit on lower berth.

My favorite berth is side lower because during daytime you can sit on regular padded chairs. If you want to sleep, you can fold out the berth into a bed. You also get to sit right next to the window.

Rail travel India: One version of Second sitting (2S) on Indian trains It's cheap. Even if there's no fan, you can open the windows and the fresh breeze will make up for that. If you're lucky to get a window seat, you can see the beautiful landscape while sitting on the train.

Rail travel India: Another version of second sitting (2S)

Thousands of Indians take the 2S, and you will definitely get to know a few on the road. It's a social train ride.

The disadvantages about 2S and Sleeper (SL) is the noise, and all the bugs and cockroaches.

But if you have been in India for quite some time, this shouldn't bother that you that much. If you're taking an evening or night train in 2S or sleeper, the small bugs will of course be attracted to the lights above you.

If you're sitting in the aisle, they will definitely land on you, or eventually in your mouth while sleeping.

When it comes to the cockroaches I only saw the smaller ones, and they were crawling in the cracks of the walls and the 'bed'. It's better to close your eyes and pretend they're not there.

Another annoying thing that can happen on train travels is beggars. When I took the sleeper class from Alleppey to Kochi in Kerala, there was a albino beggar walking in the aisle, asking for money.

I have only experienced this once in sleeper class, so whether this is a 'typical' thing or not, I'm not sure.

Rail travel India: Platforms in India Arrive early at the train station. If you're in big cities like Delhi, Jaipur, Trivandrum or Mumbai I would suggest to arrive one hour before departure.

Why?

In the cities there are several platforms to choose from. Your goal is to find the right platform where your train leaves from.

The platforms are long (I'm not exaggerating), and it's not always easy to find your way around when thousands of people are around you. It can be overwhelming at first, so that's why you should take your time.

After you've found the platform, you need to 'calculate' where on the platform 'your' coach will stop. It's crucial because you only got a few minutes to find the right coach and get on the train before it leaves.

It's not the end of the world though if you don't find it, because you can walk across the coaches till you find your seat. But knowing where your coach will stop will save you a hell lot of time, and it can be tight to walk in the aisle with your backpack touching people's faces and irritating them.

So how do you find the right spot on the platform?

There are three ways of finding out: Almost every time I took the train in India, I asked the information desk.

There's usually a queue/struggle to get to the information desk. There's no sense of queue system here -? you just have to break through and be rude yourself. It can be frustrating when people are pushing you away from the queue, but my solution there is to use your backpack to push them away.

Ask the half-sleeping officers at the train station, or the patrolling station officers. They usually know. Look for a writing board near the station chief's officer (usually on platform 1). There you'll find information on the incoming trains: which platform and which coach will land where on the platform.

Example: If your coach is S1 (sleeper 1), and it says number 11, then you have to find number 11 along the platform.

Didn't get the chance to buy a train ticket in advance?

No worries. You can buy train tickets at the railway station. Specify the route and class you want to travel in.

If you want to travel cheapest as possible, ask for General Quota. The seats in General Quota can't be reserved, but on the bright side you get really cheap tickets. With General Quota from Trivandrum to Varkala I paid Rs 21, and from Jaipur to Ajmer I paid Rs 50.

If you buy an unreserved train ticket, the coaches are the first and last of the train. You have to be prepared to stand because it's unreserved seats. If it's a short trip though it's worth the standing.

Yes, you can get food on the train. Workers on the train will frequently run and forth in the aisle, screaming "Kappi-kappi", "masala-masala" and so on.

A chai tea cost around Rs 10, and a hot masala dinner will cost around Rs 50. When the train stops at a station, there's usually people selling bottled water and Indian sweets. Make sure that the sealing of the bottle has not been tampered.

Is it safe?

I honestly didn't try any meals on board because they didn't look inspiring. I only drank chai tea, and I was fine after that.

A better (and safer) option is to buy snacks before departure, or get a quick bite at a restaurant before you leave.